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Old 05-20-2008, 05:39 PM
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Steve Lindsay Steve Lindsay is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kearney, NE
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Default Re: 1953 monarch lathe restoring

Thanks for liking it.

Steve, It was probably 75% cleaning and 25% repairing.

The bottom of carriage had turcite on it already. This probably saved the bed because the oiling system was plugged up. I glued .015" thick turcite to the bottom of the cross slide and scraped it flat using a surface plate. Then used it to fit to the mating slide on the carriage. The dovetail on the left side of the slide was worn with a bow. Got it scraped out straight and had to add another .010" shim to the gib along with the .015" high turcite.
Rapid transverse gears were worn and had new gears made for that. Bearings in the clutch were bad. Also replaced the 16 bearings in the taper attachment. Several bronze plain bearings were pressed out and replaced. Replaced the restrictor valves for the oiling systems in the carriage, gearbox and head. There was one restrictor between the gearbox and head that was challenging to replace. The spindle bearings a pervious owner already replaced, so that is good. Found a time clock factory ticket used as a shim in the carriage. It had a date of 1983 written it. So I assume this was the last time it was gone through and the turcite was added to the bottom of the carriage.

I used bondo lacquer spot putty for filler. Probably 50 tubes to fill the rough castings. Smear it on and then sand most of it off and then do it again. Paint is from a can. Maybe 15 cans of primer and 25 cans of paint. Krylon #1611 Universal Gray Engine Paint. It is a little more of a darker blue grey compared to other grey machine paints I can find in a can. I've decided it easier using can paint simply because it is so easy to repair. I keep extra around along with the spot putty, and it is fast to repair damaged paint.
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