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#1
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For those that are interested we will deep relief and sculpt a pratice plate together. I will try and lay it out step by step, answer questions, then add another step. First make a tracing of my design and transfer it, the total size should fit under a penny. Grind up 4 tools, two 45 degree (deep outline, red template) tools one with a very slight radius for detail and one with a larger radius for outlining,( in the picture the larger radius looks larger than it really is, if you can reduce the picture to real size you will have a better idea ) Third tool is one of my flat sculpting and relief tools (blue template) keep the tip small for background removal then make it larger for sculpting by resharpening the face, and the forth tool is the scraping tool(green template) for finial finishing and shaping.
If this is your first try cut to a depth of about .010 or a max. of 1/64in. the design I'm cutting is about .050 a little less than 1/16in. When cutting all your outlines lean the tool away from the outline you can make more than one pass to form the islands, next removed the islands with the small tipped flat, level background the best you can then give the background a matt finish this will give you a good look at what has been done so far. Next we will get into the fun part sculpting. Your work will look rough but please post pictures so we can work on this together, I cann't help if I cann't see what you are doing. I am useing an Artisan for the outline and background, for the sclpting I will use the Classic hand piece. Carl Bleile southwest, Ohio Last edited by carl bleile; 04-07-2009 at 11:46 PM. Reason: adding text |
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#2
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Carl, is there a reason why you choose to cut out the background as apposed to using small carbide burs to remove it? Just curious... I'd like to start this project also so I'll go ahead and copy, or make a similar design and start cutting.
These cutting lessons via the forum ROCK. Jeff |
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#3
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Good day Carl,
I want to thank you for this opportunity and would really like to participate although I don't have the templates, I will try and keep up and post some pictures. Thanks for your generosity in sharing your skills. Cheers "VAN" |
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#4
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Oh this is going to be fun!
![]() I probably won't get to start until Friday, unfortunately, but I will be following along. |
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#5
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Jeff, I don't use burs because it would be another tool to deal with, one miss touch and it could be hours of rework, but mostly once you get use to useing a flat it is much quicker, accurate, and leaves a flater background. I understand where useing a bur would seem the thing to do but trust me learning the flat is the way to go plus when you are doing very small areas burs can only get so small and your still left with the radius they leave. I have put serious effort in trying to use the burs to help myself but in the end I can do the work in 1/3 the time with better detail. You have brought up a good point and this is where someone like myself that has tried many different techniques over the years (say wasting time) has figured it out on their own what tool and technique works then advise others so they may start learning the right way with out developing bad habbits. Learning to use and control the flat will be helpful in many other areas of engraving.
Van you can do this project with a 90 degree tool or Lindsay universal point your depths of cutting will be less but it can still look good. Mr. SVD, I like your attitude I hope we will all have fun and learn something!! Carl Bleile southwest, Ohio |
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#6
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Carl,
What are the overall dimensions of the your practice plate? I understand the subject fits under a penny but I'd like to start out with the same size plate just to keep things in perspective. John
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#7
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John, the size of the pratice plate is 1 3/4 x 1 1/4
Carl Bleile southwest, Ohio |
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#8
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Carl:
I appreciate you taking the time to do this tutorial, I want to jump right in and start from the beginning. I have spent the morning sharpening tools. I am still having trouble understanding the red template, but I am sure that will come when I see what I need to do the practice plate. Here is a shot of the outline of the work. I think I should post pictures at every stage, that way ya'll can see what I may be doing wrong. I cut this with a 90 and I am sure it is not deep enough yet. I am going to work on it some more after I have lunch. Carl
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Carl Wallace Life Member NRA FEGA Member |
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#9
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I took a minute and found the threads for each of the templates so we all have an easy reference for making them up:
The Blue 'Sculpting & Relief' tool The Green 'Scraper' tool The Red 'Deepline / Banknote' tool TIP: If you right-click on the link you can have it open in a new window / tab so you don't lose your place here. NOTE FOR STEVE: A couple of things that would be a nice addition to the 'Sharpening' page of the store would be that picture you have of the templates with the 'order of grinding' numbers added and a list of links to the 'how to sharpen the xx template' threads. |
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#10
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Carl W you can do it with a 90 but don't try and go as deep as I did.
It would be nice if you could sharpen one of my deep relief tools because it will make it easyer to do some of the detail work where a wide angle tool won't fit. Now that your pratice plate is this far use the tool you have been useing and lean it over to get some more background out of the way and make your islands smaller. Keep any lines inside the design thin these are for reference and keep in mind that 100% of your design will be reshaped after it is sculpted. Steve thanks for showing the posts on sharpening. Carl Bleile southwest, Ohio |
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