Question about angles

[Capt. Fred]

Hello Gents and Ladies,

Newbie here. I've got a couple of questions on angles. Which angle do you take when the compressor starts up in the middle of the night for the second night in a row? The "Hmmmm I could have sworn I turned that off" or the "those dang dogs must have been playing down there and hit the switch". LOL

I actually do have a serious question: I am learning how to engrave and have been practicing for about a year. I inherited a GRS System 3 and I've been using Steve's sharpening system so I've got a bit of a mongrel setup but it's all I can afford right now. (By the way, the Lindsay sharpening fixtures are stunningly simple to use and have really helped my practice.)

So, my interest is building flintlock muzzleloading firearms and I'm wondering which graver angle you guys would recommend for the cutting of the main scroll lines and leaves of the real simple types of engraving that were seen on these early guns. (1750 -1800) I've been practicing with both the 96 degree and the 116 degree for the main lines and I'm wondering if there are other considerations beyond just what seems to feel best.

I'm just about ready to start cutting on some REAL parts and I want to do all I can to have at least some success on the first one. Big thanks.

Oh, this particular gun is a fowler and has all steel hardware on it if that makes a difference.

[Roger Bleile]

Capt. Fred

Considering your objective, I think that you are overthinking the process. Most early American guns were engraved with a sharpened triangular file and a simple hammer or something equally crude.

Use your Lindsay 96 degree template and it will do fine for your purposes. If you are trying to replicate period engraving so that it looks authentic under magnification you will have to do it with H&C so that you leave progress marks in the cuts. However to the naked eye few can tell the difference if you have used an air assisted tool.

The hardest part about engraving so that it looks like that of the 18th century American guns is to make it crude enough with dog legs in the scroll and other things that contemporary engravers strive to overcome.

Take a look at the work of Mark Thomas. He has a talent for doing good quality engraving yet at the same time you can belive it was done by an unusually skilled 18th century craftsman.

CRB

[jlseymour]

Welcome Capt. Fred, This is the place to ask questions and share information...
Jerry

[Capt. Fred]

Thanks Roger. That sounds good. I will look up the work you mention. I've got a spare side plate for this gun so I'm going to try my design on that first and I'll post some pics of it to see what you guys think.

[SVD]

I solved my compressor cycling problem by adding a cut-off in the line (I use a quick disconnect, other folks have valves). I just turn off the air and as long as there aren't any leaks in my compressor / tank setup it just sits there until I start using the air again.

Because I have a small compressor I picked up one of those portable 10-gallon tanks you can get at the hardware store and rigged it in for more air volume. It reduces how often the compressor comes on but when it does it runs for a longer time. Mostly I have it for when I use my rotary tool - that thing really sucks air.

[monk]

welcome, captain. i've got about a half ton of border effects fotos that are easy to do, and look authentic. if you send me your email address, i'll mail the fotos to you. jayismonk450@gmail.com

[Capt. Fred]

Thanks Monk! I just sent you an e-mail.

[Capt. Fred]

OK folks, I've finally gotten this gun done. Here's the pics:















I know this is stone age stuff by the standards of this group but it's the first thing I've engraved other than practice plates and it went OK from that standpoint. I was nervous as heck working on this. I've worked with wood my whole life and can fix almost any screw up with wood but this was waayy more verve wracking!

Normally, fowlers have very formal designs on them but this gun is for myself and I'm about as unformal a person as can be. So, I did a more free flowing look to it just for fun.

[jlseymour]

Capt that looks just fine...
Most flint locks were engraved when we were moving from place to place when we weren't shooting at a red coat or indian with a horseshoe nail sharpened on a piece of flint or other hard rock and using rock hammer found in the creek and holding the gun in our lap loaded and ready to fire...
Ain't we got it so good...
Jerry
What you think Roger B???

[Bama]

Capt. Fred that is a great first job for a flinter. I have used diffierent angles on my flinters and have found that the wider the angle the wider the line. So if you want very thin lines I use a a square or 90 and for lines that I really want to flare I use a 120. Then I have seen some work done by folks here with a 120 that is as fine as can be so I guess it has a lot to do with who is using the graver.

I did notice on your nick and dot boarder that you you used small arches instead of a nick. This may have been by design and if so please disreguard this comment.

I use a flat to make this boarder and I have seen some that can use a square. I engrave a fine line for the base and then take the flat and starting with the inside corner of the flat on the base line I start the graver down the base line ever so slightly and rolling the flat toward the opposet corner of the graver to make the peak then reverse the roll back down to the base line all while still keeping a gradual advancement of the inside corner of the graver down the base line.

Once you get the rythem started it is a fairly easy boarder to do. Although I almost never got the hang of it to start with. I have ruined many practice plates.

good luck and thanks for showing the fine flinter