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Old 10-26-2008, 10:41 PM
airamp airamp is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Scottsdale, Az.
Posts: 684
Default A Beginners Progress Plans, Tutors Tips, and Informational link

I am submitting some plates and information for beginners to let you know you are not alone in the effort to be able to engrave something that makes you smile.

I will be going though from the starting as a rank beginner (since I consider my self one) and submitting some of the information and practice plates as I learn. I will also include links and some new/old techniques of engraving and using some of the tools.

I hope this is not boring considering all the great engravers on this site but it is a first step in learning the tools and the control and Practice in a effort to get better. Hopefully some others might benefit from my mistakes and discoveries.

I tried to engrave in the late 70’s when I was in professional school as a addition to my work of trying to help pay for school. I had a small jewelry fabricating business and sold mainly hand made silver rings and necklaces. It wasn’t enough money so I started doing lost wax and eventually was in the jewelers board of trade and producing about 75-150 lost wax items a week and set many stones but they were all prong set. I only did gold and silver handmade and casting.

My introduction to engraving was when I had a order for a custom ring that had to be set by a hand engraver/stone setter. A Girl by the name of Becky was a engraver that learned from a old time plate engraver in Chicago and did the setting for me. Well one thing lead to another and she gave me my first gravers and copper plate. She also gave me a poor mans engraving block (vise??).









Here are the gravers I had and my first practice plate from the 70’s. Note one of the push gravers was made from a masonry nail… The engravers block (vise) was a block of wood with tacks on the bottom for less friction and the plate was taped to it.

Well I had to make money and judging by my first practice plate engraving was put on the back burner indefinitely. Besides it wouldn’t be a good thing to push one of those gravers though my hand being an intern.

Fast forward 29 years.

Practiced as a Chiropractic physician for 20 years in Connecticut and then moved to Arizona in 2000. I have a small practice here and also practice in a medical office besides selling/buying quite a bit on Ebay under user name AirAmp for the last 8 years.

See SVD’s thread on (selling on Ebay).

http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...t=selling+ebay

I found a Magnagrave on Ebay and won it at a low price. Looking into engraving more I decided to give it a try again. Ray J. Phillips the inventor of the magnagaver was from Connecticut so I called him and he rebuilt the magnagraver with updates.

I was impressed with the tool but had no gravers that were sharp enough to do anything with except cut soft plastic. I started my search for a way to sharpening gravers.

Somehow I was lucky enough to find Steve’s site and downloaded his patented parallel point method of sharpening gravers. I did have a few faceting machines to sell on Ebay so after downloading the patent I started sharpening on a faceting machine. I did write a thread on it in the forum. I have since improved the chuck and now use a 120 index gear and a Jacobs chuck for round 1/8 inch carbide’s.













Here is the link for sharpening on a faceting machine.

http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...ceting+machine


Doing more research watching Steve’s videos and reading the forum I decided I had to have a Classic if I was going to try this again.

I still have not cut another practice plate in about 29 years.

I set up a bench by using a Steelcase desk (from a auction at a local university), pulled out some of my jewelry tools, bought a engravers vise on ebay and set up one of the microscopes I had for sale (ebay again). Here is my bench, the draw acts as a good catch for the chips. A few more things and all I needed was the Classic.





I picked up a little box from the jewelry supply to hold the sharpened gravers in one place.



Hobby shop silicone fuel line is great for putting on gravers to save your fingers from the sharp square edges when putting pressure and guiding the graver in a cut.



Other tools needed or helpful are:

Files, Optivisor with lenses #5 (8 inch focal length) #7 (6 inch focal length) These have glass lenses any others are just not worth the money. If you use reading glasses you can wear them and the focal length is shortened (usually to the next number optivisor lense).




Sanding block with 600 & 1200 emery paper and some soft brass and steel wheels



Demagnetizer if you are using a power grinder would be nice. Cassette demagnetizer works well.




Scribe, carbon black pigment, V block (for squaring up gravers) could be useful
Lube oil (blue lube, or light oil, kerosene) finishing stones, 1/8 inch Drill blanks (can grind them into gravers or points for stippling and will fit airgraver).
Polishing motor with cotton wheels and polishes (from a Jewelry supply company).
Semichrome polish ( or S100 total cycle finish restorer chrome polish) this is actually about 50,000 grit diamond paste)



A microscope is nice but not absolutely needed at first.

I bought a rotary tool called a Ney Hurricane for back round removal. These can be bought on Ebay Rebuilt for less than $100.00 if you are luck.


Check out this forum link.

http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...ight=hurricane


Graver Blanks (Carbolt are the best, Cobalt, M42, then HHS) M42 and HHS are the best for Bolino points, Knive grinds, and stippling punches (drill rod).


I found some 1/8 Carbide round on ebay 50 pieces for about $44.00 delivered.
Good for making gravers C2 carbide



I bought a foot control Classic from Steve on 08/22/08 and was set to give it a try again.

I set it up with a 20lb CO2 bottle and a welding regulator adapted for the Co2. I really didn’t want to hear a compressor.



Files are handy



Many supplies and basic tools can be ordered at reasonable prices from this link:

http://www.contenti.com/products/engraving-tools.html

I have used them and they are very reputable.


The classic came with a sharpened graver so I had at it with a steel electrical knockout plate. The Classic cut like a dream through the metal but cut so fast I knew that now I had to learn how to control it.

Here is my first practice plate with the foot pedal classic set at 30 lbs and mid range stroke. Random cuts and just having some fun.




As you can see I tried various depths, turns, fine lines, cross hatch and generally messed around on the plate. It wasn’t long for me to realize that this tool was even better than I expected and was everything plus more that was raved about in the forum and in articles.

Now the challenge: To control it to make something that is beautiful.

I started by trying to make straight lines of constant depth and width on a ¼ inch brass plate.


The lines were straight but varied in depth, width and still didn’t feel I had the control I needed. ( I had to resist the urge to just mash on the pedal and smile). Maybe did it once or twice.

About in mid September Steve called and asked if I was near Tempe, Arizona, which was the next town over from me.

He said that Bryan Bridges a engraver was going to start giving classes and maybe I would be interested in taking a few lessons. Steve said he was very experienced and worked with Lynton McKenzie.

He was in fact good friends, partners and Bryan was the reason Lynton moved to Arizona.

Well it was just what I needed, since most schools were far away and I couldn’t get away from my practices and Ebay business and the expense?? Having Bryan Bridges close by was Perfect!!

I called Bryan and started 3 hour classes once a week.

You can read more on the thread I did on Bryan and Steve’s write up on Bryan Bridges School and classes and some more detail of his history and his accomplishments.

http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...=bryan+bridges


http://www.engravingschool.com/schools.htm

Bryan also patented a power turntable that is under Vises on the Airgraver site. Bryan said Lynton used a crude foot powered turntable that gave Bryan the idea of making his powered high tec model.

I used it and it really is incredible no longer have to stop and reposition your hand in the middle of a turning cut. It also has instant reverse so cutting a S curve is easy. With the right foot on the Classic pedal, the left foot on the turn table speed controller, the right hand with the classic cutting and the left hand on the reverse switch it is more like flying a helicopter than riding a bicycle but in a few moments it all comes together.

Is that a good enough reason to Get A PC??? After all it will free up one foot!!

Check the turntable out here.

http://www.airgraver.com/vises.htm

After using his turntable and his Vise I had to change to a self centering vise and a turntable. I bought a Grizzly self centering vise, TV turntable, machine parallels, and a laser pointer for centering the curves under the scope. The Ball Vise went to the side.

Here is the bench with the Grizzly and turntable on it.




Grizzly vise link:
http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...hlight=grizzly


Also remember you have to be comfortable so have an adjustable (height) chair or stool. This is one of the most important things you can get to help your progress. If you are not comfortable you cannot concentrate on what you are doing.


Classic transfer technique.


Learning from Bryan I knew I wanted to learn the old tricks of engraving and have the added advantage of Bryan’s experience as a Die Maker and sculpture to boot.

We first made a scribe out of a carbide dental bit sharpened to a point for tracing on acetate. This is only used for acetate do not use it as a scribe, make one for just scribing or you will not get good transfers.

The print was put on glass then a layer of colored acetate and then a layer of clear acetate. The colored acetate was so you could see your scratches.

The Tracing is now colored with lamp black pigment. Use a old tee shirt roll it up into a roll and tape it. This will serve as a method to get the lamp black into the little scratches you made.





Your plate is prepared by sanding with 600 grit and cleaning with a cotton cloth ( spit as the classically was done (just love that) to clean the plate of any oils). Put a layer of transfer solution on it and burnish it once the solution is tacky, place the acetate down and burnish it. The carbon black will leave a perfect transfer.

This is a acetate transfer of a McKenzie smoke and my first cutting with Bryan.
Not too great but I got a chance to use Hammer and Chisel, and PC airgraver on the plate.
These are my first curves practice. Not consistent on depth or smooth but more interesting than straight lines!!

Thank you Steve Lindsay for putting on loan a P.C. Classic for Bryan Bridges Classes it is really a great addition and as you say it is intuitive to use.(Did I mention frees up one foot!!)





Transfer mixes

There are many transfer mixes out there that seem to all work some better than others.

Bryan Bridges Chisel Whiting :The Best All Around Transfer Solution Ever
You will see this on my plates. It is not Chinese white. It is a special mix used for years by die engravers and will not rub off or smear the transfer at all.

(more on this later but you will see it used submission)
(A mix kind of like your grandmothers meatloaf)
(Once the formula is perfected Bryan will be selling it)

Tom Whites Transfer Magic (best system for use with inkjet printer)
High detail transfers Uses Epson printer and Durabright ink and Epson acetates
Expensive printer ink and only Epson Acetate works with this system.
Site for transfer magic for more information and examples of this product:

http://users.commspeed.net/ttwhite/xtransc.htm

Others are:
Delmar Varnish with Alcohol (15/85%)

Delmar Varnish with Zippo lighter fluid (naphtha) (20/80%)

Delmar Varnish with turpentine (20/80%)

Bulls eye shellac with Alcohol (15/85%)


NOTE: Alcohol is DENATURED Alcohol (NOT ISOPROPAL)

Note these mix formulas are approximate numbers by volume. The varnish or shellac can be decreased by adding thinner of your choice to get the mixture to tack up in 30-90 seconds.

New laser technique of transfer how to:


I realize that there are copyright on many if not most of the artwork in books and on the internet. I will be using some of the work for practice plates. If anyone feels the use of this artwork for teaching or showing examples of work done violates there copyright please notify me and it will be removed it from the tutor.

That having been said I have to recommend a few Great books as educational and a great source for practice plate art. (Personal use only).

The Art of Engraving (Meek)

http://www.contenti.com/products/books/116-356.html


The Art of Engraving: A Text-book and Practical Treatise on the Engraver's Art, with Special Reference to Letter and Monogram Engraving 1904

Forum Link: http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...engraving+book

Credit to Steve Lindsay.


Modern letter engraving in theory and practice; a manual for the use of watchmakers, jewelers and other metal engravers" (published 1898)
Forum link: http://www.handengravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=2336
Credit to: WVEngraver Chris for finding this one.

Guide For Drawing the Acanthus". It is dated 1886
Forum Link: http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...ht=online+book
Credit to: Steve Lindsay

Drawing and understanding Scroll Designs (Ron Smith)
http://www.contenti.com/products/books/116-614.html



And many more on Steve’s Thread on Old books.

Link: http://www.handengravingforum.com/sh...engraving+book
Credit to: Steve Lindsay


I mention these for the beginner at the site to try to give them more information on designs and information on engraving much of which is free.

These would take hours to find on the site

So I thought it would be a good start to link them for a beginner.
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